Somewhere in Wyoming, there is a cowboy saddling up to ride. Somewhere in Wyoming, there is a family experiencing the unbridled beauty of Yellowstone National Park. Somewhere in Wyoming, there is a group making their way across the fire engine red Astoria Bridge into another world.
Just across that iconic red bridge sits Snake River Sporting Club, which opened in 2006 and offers more than 1,000 acres of first-class experiences nestled between part of the 3.5 million-acre Bridger-Teton National Forest and the Snake River. Once a members-only private club, Snake River opened their five-star Sylvan Lodge to guests last year. The Sylvan Lodge takes luxury to new heights, with rooms chock-full of lavish modern conveniences. Floor-to-ceiling windows, full kitchen, washer and dryer, seating for the whole group, and bathrooms that come fully equipped and even feature heated floors for those brisk northern mornings.
In addition to the Lodge rooms, Snake River Sporting also offers Lodge Cabins for larger groups, families, or those who want a more intimate, private stay.
Once at Snake River, guests are met with affable hospitality from the moment they enter the lobby until they cross the bridge back to reality. Rooms are kept tidy by staff, almost to the point of absurdity. I jokingly began calling staff “hospitality ninjas” because every time we would leave our room, even if for just a half hour, when we returned, fresh towels were in place, counters were organized and bedding was shipshape. I have honestly never experienced this kind of extraordinary warmth as a guest.
The Lodge also offers a 10,000 square-foot wellness center with a spa, fitness center, and outdoor exercise pool. The wellness center offers traditional massages, facial therapy, detox body treatments, and even private yoga or Pilates classes. If you need some additional relaxation, head for the steam room or infrared sauna and feel the stress and soreness melt away.
The Dark Sky Bar is a no-brainer to pop in for dinner and offers guests crafted cocktails like the Huckleberry Hill (huckleberries are big in this part of the world), which combines Bombay Sapphire Gin, St. Germain Huckleberry Syrup with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice. This crisp cocktail is a perfect precursor to the Steak Frites, their Classic Wedge Salad, or the Tuna Poke Nachos.
A fire pit on the Dark Sky patio also serves as a fantastic spot to take in the fresh Wyoming air and roast some s’mores, which are available in the evenings.
One of the truly unique things about the Sylvan Lodge is its rooftop hot tubs. A half dozen individual tubs sit on the roof, framed and isolated by individual landscaping. There may not be a better spot for some relaxation stargazing anywhere in Wyoming. After dinner, take a drink up to the roof, have a soak and let your eyes wander into the constellations above. Short of a trip on the International Space Station, you will never feel closer to the cosmos.
Golf at Snake River Sporting Club is as awe-inspiring as it gets. 1973 Open Champion Tom Weiskopf designed the par-72 layout, which boasts two distinct nines. Course conditions are immaculate, as the routing winds in and out of majestic Birch, Aspens and Firs on the opening nine, while the inward nine opens to the trundling valley floor and views of the Snake River. Tributaries weave throughout, with Trumpeter Pond and Beaver Pond prominent as you navigate the back.
On a course that is replete with great golf holes, there are a few particular highlights, beginning with the opening hole, a downhill par 4 that provides a handshake with the beauty of the Snake River and the canyon off to the west. A chuckwagon sits just to the left of the teeing area and offers a wonderful place to get an Instagram worthy photo as you prepare to take on the golf course. It’s a perfect precursor to the remaining holes, which deliver memorable shots over and over again.
Weiskopf is known to be fond of short par 4s, and No. 2 checks that box early in the round. An aggressive play can find a speed slot over a hill that feeds balls down near the front edge of the putting surface. A large bunker on the right guards the green complex, which has diabolical movement throughout. Eagle is a possibility here, but miss in a bad spot, and suddenly, bogey or worse is in play. It’s a heck of a design from Weiskopf, and one of the more memorable holes on the course.
As you play the par 4 3rd, be sure to take a moment to stop and look at the small cabin off to the left of the green. This cabin is a relic from those who settled the area in the 1800s. The structure is tiny, smaller than most on-course comfort stations you find these days. It’s a true glimpse into the past - and how far we have evolved since.
No. 4 is the shortest par 3 on the course, tucked among a natural amphitheater of towering evergreens. Playing just 150 from the tips, the undulating green and sod-walled bunker guarding the front-left make it anything but routine. It’s a true beauty.
The front nine ends with a par 5 with a stream running all along the right side that then crosses the fairway about 350 yards from the back tees. A good drive will leave about 240 yards, but the same stream opens into a pond left of the putting surface, making this a true risk-reward challenge. Laying up probably makes the most sense to take a big number out of play, but those who are bold enough to pull off a headcover can be rewarded with a nice finish to the first nine.
As mentioned, the final nine opens to more valley floor views and a meadowland style. In my humble opinion, the contrasting nines really make this course that much more special. They truly are two completely different experiences.
Both par 3s on the second nine are tough customers. No. 12 is the longest par 3 on the course, playing a muscular 233 from the back. Teeing it forward a bit helps, but even from one tee in, it still plays 215, and now that players are exposed, the breezes are more prominent. Beaver Pond just off to the left is a great place to see waterfowl or Osprey, but maintain focus, because the green is surrounded by bunkers. Par at 12 is a great score.
No. 15 is another par 3 and offers the closest view of the Snake River off to players’ right. Playing 220, this is another hole where choosing appropriate tees it paramount. There aren’t any bunkers guarding the green, but a slight natural dropoff on the front left can make for awkward chips for those who miss in this spot. On a course that supplies breathtaking views throughout, this tee shot might just be the best. Time seems to slow as your ball grabs for the blue skies above the mountain valley and then makes its descent back to the emerald floor below.
The final hole at Snake River Sporting Club is a straightaway par 5 that leads back to the clubhouse. There is a large aiming bunker that must be carried off the tee, but with a well-struck driver, it isn’t necessarily in play. Martin Creek runs all along the right, eventually pouring over rocks right of the green. A massive bunker on the left protects the layup area, and another large sand trap can swallow balls short and right of the green. It’s one final chance at a birdie but can also lead to a big number should things go awry.
As you walk off the final green, you are hit with a wave of thoughts about your round. You are flush with memories of the course, shots you hit, both good and bad, but mainly you are left feeling grateful to have played this great game in such an astonishing setting.
The 26,000 square foot clubhouse sits just atop a hill behind No. 18. There you can load up on swag (Snake River SC has a stupendous logo of the famous Bucking Horse and Rider), or you can choose to knock back a beverage or two in the Canyon Bar. If the weather is nice, order a light snack, your libation of choice, and head to the outdoor seating area, where you can watch other players tackle the course as you reflect on your own personal experience.
With golf under your belt, there are plenty of other activities on property. Pickleball, skeet shooting, mountain biking, archery, and horseback riding are just a few options. Snake River also offers whitewater rafting adventures during the summer season. All of these experiences can be booked through “The Hub”, which sits in the Sylvan Lodge and serves as the jumping-off point for most of the activities you might be interested in. We chose to do some fly fishing. Our guide was knowledgeable about the area and took us to all the hotspots not only on the banks along the river, but in the river as well. We even spent some time in the waters just below the Astoria Bridge, which made for a really cool visual as the cool waters of the Snake rushed beneath our feet.
If the outdoorsy stuff isn’t your thing, no worries. There is always the spa, or if you are all about just kicking back, a swim in the infinity pool overlooking the golf course with a cocktail isn’t a bad way to spend an afternoon.
A day of golf and fly fishing will work up quite an appetite, so after a couple hours of relaxation in the room, we made our way down to the River Room, which is located in the main clubhouse near the course. This fine-dining experience pairs local flavors with traditional preparation, making it a perfect romantic evening. The chicken fried quail is a must as a shareable for the table. The quail is crunchy without being greasy and comes with a hot honey drizzle to add a little sweet heat.
Entrées include the Wet-Aged Bison Striploin, which is a local staple and is packed with flavor. It’s a cut meant for those who just worked up a big appetite on the Weiskopf 18 hole course. An Elk T-Bone is also available, which comes with a tangy blue cheese crust. If you are looking for something a little lighter, the Seared Halibut with a carrot ginger purée is succulent and will dazzle the palate. Pair any of these with a selection from River Room’s wine cellar or a Perfect Pear, which is a combination of Tito’s Vodka, Clear Creek Pear Brandy, lemon and orange juices. It’s a cocktail you will want to recreate once you get home.
With dinner complete, there is only one thing left to do … and that is order some dessert. The Cast Iron Cookie is exactly what you think it is. A traditional chocolate chip cookie with some vanilla ice cream served in a piping hot cast iron vessel. It’s a rockstar. If you are a peanut butter and jelly person, which I happen to be, then you cannot leave Snake River Sporting Club without trying the Peanut Butter and Jelly Mousse Cake. It has a white chocolate chip Rice Crispies Crust with peanut butter mousse and a grape gelée. It’s like a Frankensteinian combination of a Rice Crispies Treat, peanut butter and jelly sandwich and a cheesecake. It immediately vaulted onto my Mount Rushmore of desserts, to the point where I have considered calling the restaurant and inquiring if there may be any way they can ship me one a couple times a year just to satisfy the craving.
Despite its seemingly isolated location, the property sits just a short 45-minute drive from the Jackson Hole Airport, which has direct flights from DFW International. The Jackson Hole Airport is the lone airport in the country that sits in a national park. As soon as you scoop up your rental vehicle, you are immediately transported to incredible views of the Teton Mountains and the rolling vistas of Grand Teton National Park and the valleys below. If this is your first time in Wyoming, you are immediately met with an optical amuse-bouche as to what your trip will hold.
Snake River Sporting Club is undoubtedly one of the most lavish destinations I have had the pleasure of seeing. Sure, that sometimes comes with a price tag, but with all the resort has to offer, it seems a small price to pay for unparalleled beauty and hospitality. And we still have Yellowstone to discuss.
If you do make it to Snake River SC, you are only a short drive from downtown Jackson. While Snake River is well-equipped should you never want to step foot off property, if you choose to make the trip to Jackson proper, be prepared to be impressed by its quaint atmosphere. The gondola to the top of Snow King Mountain is a must try, although, I must say, I am getting a little too old for heights.
The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar may seem a little touristy, but with its history, you need to pop in for at least one Yellow Jacket (Coors Banquet) and a shot of house whiskey. There is almost always live music to listen to, and how can you resist getting a picture in one of the saddle barstools?
The Jackson Hole Veterans Monument is located in the Town Square, which sits across from The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar. The corners of the Town Square are the spots where most take their photo under the famous Antler Arches. There is plenty of shopping, dining and other things to do in and around the square, but a stop at Moo’s Gourmet Ice Cream is a must, with their rich, creamy ice cream in flavors like Coco Loco, Peach and their award-winning Wild Huckleberry, which Food Network voted best dessert in Wyoming.
And, as I am sure you know, Jackson Hole is ripe with great skiing in the wintertime.
While in the great state of Wyoming, there is an additional stop that I think you should consider. As my wife and I were presented with the opportunity to visit Snake River Sporting Club, we began to consider a day at Yellowstone National Park. Now, anyone who has been to the park will tell you that you could spend days or even months exploring every nook and cranny of a place so massive. We didn’t have that luxury, so we began to work through a one-day, see as much as possible drive through the most famous park in the world.
Although we only spent one day at Yellowstone, the loop came with a lifetime of memories. The spectacular terrain, wildlife and bubbling geyser pools feel like a different planet, and all the while, you can’t help but let your mind wander to those explorers and fur traders who trekked across this land and the hardships they faced as they mapped one of the truly imposing pieces of our great nation.
Yellowstone has multiple entry points, but coming from Jackson, taking the John D. Rockefeller Jr. Parkway to the southern gate is the best bet. If you only have one day at the park as we did, there is a suggested loop that will allow you to hit most of the major stops. From this entry, you will make your way by Lewis Lake and the West Thumb Geyser Basin. From this point, it is just 19 miles to the main visitor center and the most famous geyser in the world, Old Faithful. Old Faithful isn’t just a clever nickname, as geologists and park rangers can predict eruptions with 90% confidence within a 10-minute window. Eruptions occur about every 90 minutes and average about 130 feet into the Wyoming sky. If you happen to arrive close to an eruption, take a seat on the boardwalk and enjoy. If you have some time to kill, walk the entire loop around the Upper Geyser Basin trail and check out the other geothermal activity in the area. We also had our first encounter with the wildlife in the park on this hike, a massive bison grazing along the banks of the Firehole River. He was the first bison we saw but would not be the last.
From Old Faithful, make the seven-mile drive up Grand Loop Road to Grand Prismatic. Although this was our second stop, it was arguably the most memorable. The Grand Prismatic is the third largest hot spring in the world. At its deepest point, the spring is 120 feet to the bottom with a width of approximately 370 feet. But what makes this such a jaw-dropping spectacle is the crystal-blue center with microscopic organisms called thermophiles growing around the outer edges, creating bands of bright orange, yellow, and brown. You can view the Prismatic from just off Grand Loop Road, or you can make the almost mile hike to the Grand Prismatic Overlook to capture the beauty from above. It’s not a terribly difficult hike but will take some extra time if you are on a truncated schedule. I will say that the extra time to hike to the overlook was absolutely worth it. It’s one of the most beautiful places on Earth.
From Grand Prismatic, head to the Fountain Paint Pots, which are bubbling pools unlike anything you have ever seen. These otherworldly sludge-filled mudpots are as interesting as they are pungent, as they gurgle hydrogen sulfide gas to the surface.
The aforementioned stops should take most of the morning, leaving just a few remaining hours to pack in as much as possible. One must-see is the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. This jaw dropping natural phenomenon offers sweeping views of the Yellowstone River and both the Upper and Lower falls, including Artist Point, which is a panorama that will leave you absolutely speechless. Bring a camera … and not just your iPhone … an ACTUAL camera. I promise if you don’t, you will wish you had.
As the day winds down, head over to Hayden Valley, which is one of Yellowstone’s prime spots for wildlife. Bison will cross roads in the valley, which can add some time to your adventure as passersby stop to take photos of herds. Be mindful to stay in designated viewing areas or in your vehicle, as bison can be easily agitated when their space is violated, especially during mating season. Hayden Valley is also a premier area to see grizzlies, bald eagles and wolves, although we were shut out on everything but bison.
I can’t recommend Yellowstone enough. It’s a magical place. Yes, it can get crowded at times, and yes, when you are trying to see it all in a day, you will get home exhausted and ready for a shower and some sack time. But I can’t imagine a place anywhere in the world that is more worth the effort.
Although there aren’t as many bucket list stops in Grand Teton National Park, it is still worth taking some time to explore. The Jenny Lake boat tour is a particular highlight, as you are whisked around the bright blue waters in the footprint of the Cathedral Mountain Group. Our guide Tommy told us the history of the area, focused mainly on John Rockefeller and his wife Abby, who grew so fond of the beauty in the 1920s that they purchased thousands of acres in the valley to help preserve the land which eventually became these national parks. Tommy also detailed the Grand Teton Picnic, which is an unofficial triathlon that begins in downtown Jackson with a 23-mile bike ride to Jenny Lake, followed by a 1.5-mile swim across the lake and a hike and technical climb to the summit of the Grand Teton at close to 14,000 feet. But that’s just half of the challenge. Anyone attempting this grueling physical test must head back down the mountain, swim across Jenny Lake again and then head back to town by bike. To complete this successfully, it must be done in less than 24 hours. The current record for the Grand Teton Picnic is a staggering 10 hours, 17 minutes, 5 seconds.
To access the parks, you can head online to the National Park Service’s website (nps.gov) and purchase an Annual Pass, which is good for one year and allows access to both Grand Teton and Yellowstone. It’s the best value if you plan to visit both.
I had high hopes for Wyoming, given all I had seen and read. I must say, those expectations were far exceeded. Snake River Sporting Club is one-of-a-kind, Jackson Hole is laid back and relaxing, and Yellowstone is a must see for everyone before we pass to whatever may be next.
Somewhere in Wyoming, there is a cowboy saddling up to ride. Somewhere in Wyoming, there are those seeing this great state for the first time. Just a few weeks ago, that was my wife and I. And I am sure glad we got the chance.
You can find more information on the Snake River Sporting Club at www.snakeriversportingclub.com.