Rex’s Fresh Seafood
5200 W. Lovers Lane, Dallas, TX 75209
214-351-6363, www.rexsseafood.com
I don’t consider myself an expert on a lot of things, but one specialty just so happens to be fresh seafood.
See, I grew up in Miami, wasted many weekends in the Florida Keys and spent my summers in New England. From Key West to Old Orchard Beach, Maine, I ate at more authentic seafood restaurants up and down the East Coast than I could ever recall.
When I received my latest assignment to feature Rex’s Fresh Seafood, I accepted with considerable skepticism. A legitimate fresh seafood restaurant in landlocked Dallas that could compare to the genuine seaside seafood restaurants I grew up on? No way. The over-the-top praise from my co-workers had to be due to them not knowing about true fresh seafood, or the lingering effects from their recent 72-hole golf event.
Well, I stand corrected. Rex’s Fresh Seafood rivals any of the top seafood restaurants overlooking the Atlantic Ocean or Florida Straits. The seafood is not only fresh and varied, it is prepared with a flair not normally found at similar establishments.
Recently, the family and I visited Rex’s on a Saturday afternoon for lunch. We were fortunate to secure a table given how busy it was. We soon came to appreciate why.
The layout at Rex’s consists of two large refrigerated display cases containing the freshest seafood available for purchase by the pound, racks of sauces and marinades, and two coolers with about 15 different soups for purchase, and approximately 20 tables for dining.
A very personable and energetic waitress quickly greeted us and provided menus. She explained the day’s features that were written on the large chalkboard along the back wall. Besides the featured dishes, the chalkboard listed soups, side dishes (vegetables) and desserts. The features were varied and unique; definitely a step up from Alabama Jacks in Key Largo.
For starters, Rex’s offers an array from Dennis Bay (Cape Cod) Oysters, Shrimp Cocktail and Crab Cakes to Ceviche and the Dip Trio (Shrimp Spinach Artichoke, Smoked Salmon and Shrimp Dips).
We ordered the Dip Trio, Mini Crab Cakes and Shrimp Brochette. The Dip Trio portions were very generous and served with toasted bread slices and fresh grated cheese. All three dips were delicate and delicious. The freshness of the ingredients was evident on each bite. The Mini Crab Cakes were two good-sized cakes nicely seared on the outside but cooked so that the insides were a pleasing texture and taste. The remoulade sauce was flavorful without overpowering the crab.
The Shrimp Brochette was four plump shrimps wrapped in bacon with sliced jalapeños. The shrimps were cooked to perfection with the right tenderness.
Feeling adventurous, we ordered all three soups of the day, which were Lobster Bisque, Gumbo and Gazpacho. Different soups are featured each day of the week so check out beforehand which day offers your personal favorite.
The Lobster Bisque was not overly heavy like most, allowing the lobster to shine. The Gumbo was outstanding and chock full of rice, crab meat, and green and red peppers. The seasoning was well done, adding to the rich taste. The Gumbo was served with a side of fresh-made potato salad with red potatoes with the skins left on. The Gazpacho was very fresh, although underwhelming after sampling the Gumbo.
One of the noticeable differences at Rex’s compared to the typical beachside restaurant was the attention paid to presentation and the sophistication of the ingredients and preparation. The kitchen staff at Rex’s apparently believes in stepping it up when it comes to challenging your taste buds.
For entrées, the menu includes the daily specials, several seafood salads, Fish Tacos, a wide variety of fish dishes, Seared Scallops, Seared Gulf Shrimp, plus Hot and Cold Seafood Sandwiches. Sides include roasted broccoli, roasted potatoes, cole slaw, cheesy grits and seasonal vegetables.
The fish dishes on the fixed menu include such items as Ginger Miso Chilean Sea Bass, Sea Salt Crusted Big Eye Tuna, Pan Seared Yellowfin Tuna, and Trout stuffed with Crab. Good luck trying to decide between all of the options available.
Hot sandwich options include Crab Cake and Blackened Redfish, and a Seafood Burrito. Cold sandwiches are either Tuna Salad or Crab Salad.
For our main entrées, we ordered the Arctic Char with Raspberry Chipotle, one of the daily specials, Fish Tacos, Blackened Red Snapper and Tuna Salad Sandwich. While waiting for our entrées, the chef from the kitchen, Larry, visited our table to make sure everything was going well. Originally from Louisiana, Larry’s philosophy is “I cook for the people. Anything you need, let me know and I will cook it for you.” How can you not love a place where the chef makes you feel special even on your first visit?
Our entrées arrived, and both the portion sizes and presentation were grand. The Arctic Char was delicious and the Raspberry Chipotle sauce was a perfect complement without being a distraction. It was served with cream corn, which was the right sweetness, and Risotto that was well executed. It was creamier those most with roasted red peppers, almond slivers and Parmesan cheese.
The Blackened Red Snapper rivaled the Arctic Char for taste and presentation. The Red Snapper was very light but packed with flavor, and the seasoning was just right. The green beans were cooked to the right degree of tenderness and the roasted potatoes were scrumptious.
Be forewarned, the Tuna Salad Sandwich is huge. The mix of tuna and dressing was the perfect balance of wet versus dry. And the side of potato chips – homemade.
The Fish Tacos continued the trend of generous portions, and consisted of three corn tortillas packed with tasty fish at the perfect tenderness. I went with the cheesy grits for my side and it was a home run – very creamy with the right quantity of cheese.
Even though we had overindulged, dessert was mandatory in order to maintain harmony with our two kids. The chalkboard listed so many compelling choices passing on dessert was not an option. We ordered the Brownie Sundae, Peach Cobbler and Root Beer Float. Other choices included Cheesecake, Strawberry Shortcake, Pecan Pie or Orange Dreamsicle.
All three desserts were off the charts. Generous portions, obviously fresh and beautifully presented. The Peach Cobbler, smothered by a scoop of homemade vanilla ice cream and four juicy raspberries, was divine. The Brownie Sundae and Root Beer Float were quickly devoured.
After paying, we checked out the fish in the display cases, the racks of specialty sauces and marinates, as well as the refrigerated coolers of fresh-made soups. The variety and quality available rival any high-end specialty market.
If you appreciate high-quality and fresh seafood prepared with flair and creativity, all in a relaxing down-home atmosphere, then you need to stop by Rex’s Fresh Seafood pronto. It rivals the best authentic fresh seafood restaurants found on the East Coast and you do not have to spend the time and money to fly there.
The only thing missing at Rex’s – the smell of the ocean air and sound of the surf.
In The Box
- Founder and owner Rex Bellomy grew up in Knoxville, Tenn., where his family frequented The Shrimp Dock, a local seafood institution. Needing a change from a career in commercial real estate, Bellomy decided to open Rex’s Fresh Seafood in January 2006. He trained under the owner of The Shrimp Dock, who also helped Rex set up his Seafood Market on Lovers Lane.
- Originally Rex’s sold only fresh seafood by the pound. After two years of operations and many requests to serve prepared seafood, Rex’s set up three tables, provided a paper menu and started serving lunch. Six months later, due to popular demand, Rex’s expanded to the current configuration of about 20 tables.
- Rex’s Seafood orders directly from Hawaii twice a week, Boston twice a week, and out of Alaska via Portland once a week. They also source fresh seafood from Galveston.
- The signature offering is Dennis Bay/Cape Cod oysters. Rex’s brings in about 400 dozen per week, and is the only place you can find these unique tasting oysters outside of the Greater Boston area.
- Rex’s started serving dinner less than six weeks ago, again by popular demand.
- On any given day, Rex’s sells up to 20 varieties of fresh seafood for purchase by the pound. Also, the restaurant sells approximately 30 different sauces/marinates, as well as 15 different seafood soups for carry out.
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